Directions for cutting garments with the Davis improved square

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DIRECTIONS

CUTTING GARMENTS

-WIXM THE-

DAVIS

1MBR8VED ' S9DARE'

IVLYRA A. DAVIS,

PORTLAND, MAINE.

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:E=ieiCE, 25 CEISTTS.

COPYRIGHT 1887,

PORTLAND, MAINE.

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AGEITTS V7A]^TEB

TO SELL THE

Davis Irripreved Sqaare.

A good chance for live persons to make
high wages and have steady employment.

given to good reliable persons who will

thoroughly canvass the same and see

that every purchaser is properly

taught and satisfied.

For Confidential Circulars apply to the under-
signed.

MRS. M . A . D A \^ I S ,

No. 23 BOYD STREET,

NOTICE.

Anyone learning the Davis improved
Square of an Agent and does not tinorouglnly
understand it, v^ill confer a favor by writing
me, giving tFieir address and number of
Square. Address,

MRS. M. A. DAVIS,

23 Boyd Street,

PORTLAND, ME.

DIRECTION'S

KOR-

CUTTING GARMENTS

-WITH THIi-

D A V I S

IMRRSVED.' SQUARE

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M V R A A . I) A \M S ,

PORTLAND, MAINE.

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/^ U'' COPYRIGHT 1887,

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PORTLAND, MAINE. ' ^^^ '^'^ Ttnr*

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0/76 Square with Instruction Book, - - - $5.00

One Square witli Instruction Book and Verbal Instructions, 7.00

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^HQO) TQ TAKE fHEASURES.'^^

lu (Iraftiiig garments of any kind it is of the most ini|)ortance
to have the measures taUen correctly. No person's measure should
be taken over old corsets and fitted over new or olher corsets,
and then expect to get a perfect fit — It cannot be done.

BASQUE.

1. A tape must be piuned around the person at the waist
and then pushed down as low as the dress can be worn.

2 The neck measure must be taken smoothly around the
neck, just above the collar.

3. INIeasure around the fullest part of the bust close up under
the arms and just across the lower edge of shoulder blade. It
should lay smoothly around the bust.

•4. The waist measure must be taken a little closer than the
other measures.

5. The length of front measure must be taken from the bone
in back of neck to the center of waist or tape in front.

6 The front for neck measure must be taken from the center
of t;ipe in front, to as high as you would like the dress in center
of front neck. (Be sure and take this measure long, or your
dress will be too low in the neck.)

7. For width of front, in the center of front measure about
two inches below the neck, then measure out to arm-eye in front.

8. The length of back must be taken from the bone in back
of neck to the tape in center of back.

9 For width of back, measure from center of back to arms-
eye in back.

10. Under arm measure must be taken from arm-[)it to waist
line or tape.

11. For L,ength of Shoulder, measure from side of neck to
end of shoulder.

12. For Slope of Shoulder, place the tape at waist line in
center of front and bring it up over the shoulder to center of back
waist line, as low down on the shoulder as you would like the arm-
eye or shoulder seams to come.

SIvKEVE.

1 Measure straight around the fleshy part of the arm about
one inch below the arm-pit.

2 With the arm bent, measure around the largest part of

the elbow.

3. Measure around the hand for wrist.

4. Measure from top of shoulder to elbow with the arm bent.

5. With the arm bent, iBcasure from top of shoulder over
elbow joint to wrist bone.

THE FOLLOWING MEASURES ARE TO BE USED WHILE
LEARNING TO DRAFT:

Neck,

12

Length of Back,

- 16

Waist,

24

Width of Back, -

- - 61

Bust,

36

Under Arm, -

8

Front for Neck,

- 13

Shoulder, -

- - H

Length of Front,

m

Slope of Shoulder, -

- 30

Width of Front,

7

SLEE^VE-

Arm,

Wrist,

Shoulder to Wrist,

- 12 Elbow,

8 Shoulder to Elbow,

- 22

10
14

I^IO-XTI^E 1.

diagram: ok front.

DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING FRONT.

Place the Square on the paper, long straight side toward j'ou,
two inches from front edge of paper and one-half inch down from
top of paper, draw a line down the length of Square and across
the top. Without moving Square mark on top line the size of
neck, using front neck scale, mark call dot A.

6

Move the Square over and place the neck size in back neck
scale on dot A and mark on front line the length of front, mark
call dot B.

One-half inch above dot B on front line, mark call dot C.

Draw a line from dot C square across paper ; must be square
with front line. (This is waist line.)

Measure up from dot C on front line the length of under arm,
mark call dot D.

From dot D draw a line square across paper. (This is bust
line.)

On this line from dot D make bust, using front bubt scale,
mark call dot E.

From dot E draw a line straight down to bottom of paper ;
must be square with bust line. (This is under arm line.)

From dot C on front line, measui-e up the length of front for
neck, mark call dot F. (Be sure and take this measure long or
your dress will be tejow in the neck)

From dot C on waist line, mark for size of waist, using front
waist scale, mark call dot G.

Draw a line from dot B to dot G.

On this line one and three-fourths inches from dot B, mark
call dot H.

Measure the distance between dot G and under arm line.
From dot H measure out one-half of that distance, mark call dot I.

One inch from dot I, mark call dot J.

From dot J measure out the other half of that distance, mark
call dot K.

From dot A to dot F, shape neck, using front neck.

Two inches below dot F measure out from front line for width
of front, mark call dot L.

From dot A measure out on top line, length of shoulder, mark
call dot M.

Place pin hole on dot A, hold fir ml v with a pin, draw a circle
by moving Square toward 3'ou, from dot M nearl}' to front line.

Mensnre up from dot B according to front calculation (see
note 2, page 11,) for slope of shoulder, must touch this circle,
mark call dot M M.

With straight side of Square draw a line from dot A to dot
M M, with arm-eye draw a line from dot M M to dot E, must
touch dot L.

Three and one-half inches below dot D on front line, mark
call dot N.

Two inches below dot E on under arm line, mark call dot 0.

Draw a line from dot N to dot O. (This is top of darts.)

Halfway between dot H and I draw a line from top of darts to
bottom of paper. (Must be square with bust line.)

From junction of this line at top of darts measure out one-half
inch, mark call dot P.

Half way between dot J and K draw a line from top of darts
to bottom of paper (Must be square with bust line.)

From junction of this line at top of darts measure out one-half
inch, mark call dot Q.

With curved side of Square draw a line from dot P to dot II,
and from dot P to dot I.

With curved side of Square draw a line from dot Q to dot J,
and from dot Q to dot K.

From dots H and I draw lines to a point nine inches down.

From dots J and K draw lines to a point nine inches down.

On under arm line two inches down from waist line mark one
and one-half inches out, call dot R. (This is for spring of hip )

With curved side of Square draw a line from junction of under
arm and waist line to bottom of paper, must touch dot R.

Halfway between dots D and N one-half inch toward you,
mark call dot S.

Draw a line from dot F to dot S and from dot S to dot C.
(Tills is for front spring.)

8
DIAORAIVC OK BACK.

Place the Square on the paper, long straight-edge toward
you one and a half inches from front of paper and one-half inch
from top of paper, draw a line down the length of Square and
across the top.

Place the Square long straight-edge on top line and have
short side of Square toward you, mark neck, using back neck
scale, mark call dot A.

From junction of top and back line one-quarter inch down on
back line, mark call dot B

From dot B on back line measure the length of back, mark
call dot C.

From dot C measure up back line the length of under arm,
mark call dot D.

From dot C draw a line square across paper. (This is waist
line )

From dot D draw a line square across paper. (This is
bust line )

On this line from dot D make bust, using back bust scale,
mark call dot E.

From dot C on waist line make center back according to back
calculation. (See Note 1, Page 11.) Mark cull dot F.

Three and one-half inches from dot F, mark call dot G, from
dot G make side body according to side boriy calculation, mark call
dot H, four inches from dot H, mark call dot I.

From dot I make under arm, according to under arm calcu-
lation, mark call dot J.

From dot A measure out on top line length of shoulder, which
must be one-half inch longer than front shoulder, mark call dot K.

Place pin hole on dot A, hold firmly with a pin, draw a circle
by moving Square toward you from dot K nearly to back line.

Measure up from dot C, according to back calculation, (see
note 2, page 11,) for slope of shoulder, must touch this circle,
mark call dot L.

One and one-half inch up from dot D on back line, measure
out for width of back, mark call dot M.

One-eighth inch below dot E, mark call dot N.

With arm eye draw a line from dot L to dot N, must touch
dot M.

Divide this line into three parts, the largest part below dot L,
mark call dot O.

Make a mark one-half inch nearer dot O than dot N, mark
call dot P.

From dot 0 draw aline square across paper. On this line three
inches from dot O, mark call dot Q.

From dot P draw a line square across the paper, on this line
six inches from dot P, mark call dot R.

On this line three inches from dot P, mark call dot S.

From dot N measure out six inches, mark call dot T. (Dot
T must be one-eighth inch below bust hne.)

10

With back neck shape draw a line from dot A to dot B.
With curved edge draw a line from dot A to dot L.
With arm eye draw a line from dot S to dot Q.
With arm eye draw a line from dot R to dot T.
With curved side of Square draw a line from dot O to dot F.
With curved side of Square draw a line from dot Q to dot G.
With curved side of Square draw a line from dot S to dot H.
With curved side of Square draw a line from dot R to dot I.
With curved side of Square draw a line from dot T to dot J.
Ilalf-wa}' between dots F and G draw a line eight inches down,
must be square with waist line.

With straight edge draw a line from dot F to a point eight
inches. With curved side draw a line from dot G to a point seven
inches.

Half-way between dots H and I draw a line eight inches down.
With curved side of Square draw a line from dots H aud I to a
point eight inches.

From dot J two inches down and three-fourths inch out, mark
call dot U.

With curved sicle of Square draw a line from dot J to bottom
of paper, must touch dot U.

From dot C on back line four inches down aud one-half inch
toward you, mark call dot V.

Draw a line from dot C to bottom of paper ; must touch dot V.
In tracing lining fold the selesia the reverse from what it is,
place the front draft on the fold. The selvage edge will be at the
top and bottom of draft. Trace waist line first, then the rest of
the lines. Be sure and trace very even and plainly so you can see
the tracing distinctly on both pieces of selesia ; allow three-fourths
of an inch for all seams aud two inches for lap in front. Do not
allow an}' seams around the neck and arm's eye.

In tracing back you should follow same rule as for front, and
3'ou should also trace the line that comes down front waist line
half-way between center back side body and under arm ; cut on
this line to waist line then cut on waist line toward tracing ; allow
three-fourths of an inch seam as in directions for front. When
cutting goods you can place this line so it will come on a length-
wise thread of goods and you will be sure and have your pieces on
the right grain of goods.

11

Note 1. By referring to the table of calculations upon the
Square, the width of center back, side bod}- and under arm can
be found opposite the waist measure.

Note 2. By referring to the table of calculations upon the
back of Square, the slope of front and back shoulder can be found
opposite the slope or point of shoulder measure

HOW TO CUT SKIRTS.

The front breadth of the skirt is to be cut two inches longer
than the skirt measure. Fold the cambric through the center.
From center, measure out 12 inches for bottom of skirt. From
center of top, measure out 6h inches ; now fold the cambric over
from the 6i inches at top, to the 12 inches at bottom and crease it,
cut in the crease. From the bottom of the skirt, beginning at the
gored edge, pare | of an inch off gradualh' half-way toward the
center.

Side gores, cut two breadths .three inches longer than skirt
measure Lay selvage edge of both pieces together. Make the
width at the bottom l.'j inches. The width at the top 8 inches.
Fold the cambric over and proceed the same as with the front
breadth.

The back breadth should be cut four inches longer than skirt
measure, and should be 33 inches wide when done.

In making skirts, all unevenness should come at the top. This
skirt is for a medium sized woman In cutting a skirt for a large
sized woman the bottom of front breadth should not be changed,
but the top is made from 1 to 3 inches wider, according to size of
person. The side gores should be equally enlarged from 1 to 4
inches. The back breadths should be enlarged in proportion.
This skirt is cut for dress extenders.

In turning the skirt down, the center of the front breadth and
front edge of side gore should be turned the the length of the skirt
measure. The back edge of side gore is turned | of an inch longer
than the front, and the center of back breadth should be turned 2^
inches longer than front measure.

12

The smallest extender should be put across the back breadth,
12 inches below binding. The second size is put 6 inches below
the first. The third one is seldom used ; if used it is put 6 inches
below the second, and the skirt is made 1 inch longer in the back.

In putting tlie skirt on the binding 3'ou should pin center of
binding to center of front breadth half and quarter one-half of the
binding, and pin the last quarter to the back edge of side gore ;
the half of back breadth is gathered to this, and the half of front
breadth and side gore is plated equally into the space between the
pins ; do the other half as you did the first and you will have no
trouble with your skirt.

DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING A SLEEVE.

With long straight-edge of Square toward you, draw a line
down the length of paper and across the top of Square.

13

From junction of front and top lino, mark out one inch loss
than one-half of arm measure, mark call clot A.

One inch inside of dot A on top line, mark call dot B.

Three and one-half inches outside of dot A on to|) line, mark
call dot C.

On front line, four and one-half inches from top line, mark
call dot D.

From junction of top and fi-ont line mark on front line the
length of shoulder to wrist, mark call dot E.

From dot E on front line one and three-fourth inches up,
mark call dot F.

From junctions of top and front line, mark on front line the
length of shoulder to elbow, mark call dotG.

From dot C draw a line down, must be square with top line,
on this line two inches from dot C, mark call dot II.

Draw a line from dot B down, must be square witli top line ,
on this line two inches down from dot B, mark call dot I.

Draw a line from dot G square across paper ; on this line one
and one-half inches in from dot G, mark call dot J.

From dot J make elbow one inch less than one-half of elbow
measure, mark call dot K.

From dot J make elbow one inch more than one-half of elbow
measure, mark call dot L.

From dot E draw a line out, must be square with front line ;
on this line from dot E make wrist one inch more than one-half
of wrist measure, mark call dot M.

Draw a line from dot F to dot M (this is bottom of sleeve) on
this line two inches inside of dot M, mark call dot N.

On this line one-half inch from dot F, mark call dot O.

With Square turned wrong side up and small end toward j^ou ;
with arms e^e draw a line from dot A to dot D.

With Square turned so that A in arms eye will touch dot A,
draw a line from dot A to dot H.

With arms eye draw a line from dot D to dot I.
With curved edge beginning one inch below 8 in biases draw
a line from dot H to dot L ; with straight edge draw a line from
dot I to dot K.

With Square turned wrong side up, with A on curved side of
Square at dot D draw a line from dot D to dot J ; move the Square

14

down so A on curved side of Square will touch dot J ; draw a line
from dot J to dot F.

From dot O draw a line nearly up to dot J and just touch the
curved line in sleeA'e.

With Square just the same way, A on curved side of Square,
draw lines from dot L to dot M, and from dot K to dot N.

TO DRAFT A GATHERED SLEEVE.

You should make dot B one and one-half inches inside of dot A.

Make dot C four and one-half inches outside of dot A.

Make dot K two inches less than one-half of elbow measure.

Make dot L two inches more than one-half of elbow measure.

Make dot M one and one-half inches more than one-half of
wrist measure.

Make dot N three inches inside of dot M on wrist line.

All the other letters you should use just the same as in direc-
tions for plain sleeve.

The Davis Improved Square is made of the best Tag Board ;
it is bound with Steel and varnished ; it will last a life-time. It is
in one piece and drafts a garment complete. A book of instruc-
tions is given with each Square, also a Measure Book which is
verv useful.

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

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